Day 11: SA + Swaziland

Today’s tidbit: “Adventure is a path. Real adventure–self-determined, self-motivated, often risky–forces you to have firsthand encounters with the world. The world the way it is, not the way you imagine it. Your body will collide with the earth and you will bear witness. In this way you will be compelled to grapple with the limitless kindness and bottomless cruelty of humankind–and perhaps realize that you yourself are capable of both. This will change you. Nothing will ever again be black-and-white.
 Mark Jenkins

I have had a wide range of SA posts so far, from natural beauty and wildlife adventures to culture and cities. This post, however, shows  a very real and heartbreaking side of Africa. It really impacted and changed me and I think it’s important to share.

Last week I mentioned day 10&11 with our road trip adventure to Durban. After spending the morning walking along the beach, we met our group and were back on the road, heading to our next destination–Coffee Bay. Along the way, we drove through one of the poorest counties in Africa–Swaziland. Coming to SA, I was expecting to have some culture shock. While there were many changes, and places that really opened my eyes (remember my Soweto post?), nothing I saw in SA compared to Swaziland. That was a culture shock.

Sneak peek image:

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Be sure to click below to read more and check out more pictures. Enjoy!

{Immigration} Swaziland is a separate country from South Africa, so we had to stop and go through immigration on our way in and out. That was an experience in itself.

As the website states, “Swaziland is a landlocked country in Southern Africa, bordered to the north, south and west by South Africa, and to the east by Mozambique. The state, as well as its people, are named after the 19th-century king Mswati II. Swaziland is one of the smallest countries in Africa. It is no more than 200 kilometres (120 mi) north to south and 130 kilometres (81 mi) east to west. Regardless, the country has a very diverse topography with varying climate with a cool and mountainous highveld and a hot and dry lowveld.” Read more.

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{landscape + living} The country is small but has a variety of topography, as mentioned above. Swaziland is one of the poorest countries in Africa, as you will see by the living conditions, amenities and housing. The pictures, all of which were taken while driving inside our bus, will do the talking…

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{unplanned stop} Due to the many steep curvy little roads through the mountains, our tour bus overheated, forcing us to pull over on the side of the road. While the driver and our tour guide poured water and dealt with that, our group stayed inside. I however took it as an opportunity to get out and appreciate the views… and take pictures that weren’t through the window while driving.

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{life changing interaction I want to share} I know many who read my blog say they feel as though they are experiencing it, which is what I want to do. Really try and put yourself in my place as you read this…

As I stood out there I noticed a group of teenagers and kids walking down a steep dirt path across from us, none with shoes. They continued on while a girl and young boy came up to the tour bus. While standing there I noticed them looking at me up and down, and I was trying not to do the same. They had no shoes and were covered in dirt. Their clothes had holes. She didn’t have a bra on and her skirt was backwards.

I couldn’t really understand her, as she didn’t talk much english, but I was able to make out some words and interact. She told me I was very pretty and asked if I had anything for them. They hadn’t eaten in days. She was caring for her younger brother. She leaned in and said she was scared… to take her with us. I asked why and she said, “Men.” I later learned her skirt was on backwards because of men. She was being raped and had no escape. It broke my heart and I teared up. I went back to the bus and got some fruit I had from the hotel. I gave them each an apple and orange, which was all I had. Although the boy didn’t speak english at all, they both got the biggest smile and she thanked me. It touched me in a way I can’t describe. I know that’s all they’ll probably eat for a few days.

It’s truly heartbreaking people are living like this and have no outlet or room to advance. Education is not a priority. The country is in poverty and the king (who has 15 wives!) does nothing about it. Swaziland is critically affected by the HIV and AIDS disease. Much of this is a result of lack of education and awareness along with women’s rights (or lack there of). It’s terrible! The only thing that got me through was telling myself ignorance may be bliss in this case. Many barely have 4 secure walls and a roof to call home much less a TV, internet etc. This is all they know. For me it was heartbreaking to know many will never know anything other than this and how much is out there.

After a good hour talking to them, the bus was ok and we continued on. I teared up and will never forget pulling away and seeing them standing there on the side of the road. It’s a reminder of how fortunate we really are and that we can make a difference.

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{handmade gifts} As we continued to the border again, we stopped at a local shop–one of the few jobs women had. We saw locals making beautiful handmade candles and soaps. I wanted to support them and would have bought more but they were heavy for the luggage and we still had a week left of our tour. Some of you many recognize these as I bought a few for presents 🙂

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{amazing sunset} As always, the day was ended with a gorgeous African sunset as we headed out of Swaziland and continued onto Coffee Bay.

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It was an eye opening and heartbreaking day but I am glad I experienced it. These moments can’t be planned–it’s the beauty of traveling and adventure. If our bus didn’t overheat I never would have interacted with the locals the way I did. Simply making their day with an apple and orange. I will never forget the look in their eyes or the things I saw here.

Reaching our next destination from Swaziland, next week continues with Coffee Bay.

5 Responses to “Day 11: SA + Swaziland”

  1. Karen says:

    Yes that was an eye-opening and interesting day to say the least…

    The pictures of the children are so touching. LOVE the intro quote as that sums up this day to a t and all travel for that matter if your eyes, ears, heart and mind are open. Great job again!

  2. Allie says:

    Wow! Very touching and heartwrenching post, thank you for sharing. It certainly does make you appreciate how lucky we all are. Love you

  3. […] on from last weeks Swaziland post, we reached our Coffee Bay destination, where we were staying for 2 nights. By the time we got to […]

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